driving sri lanka

Driving in Sri Lanka may seem like a great way to explore this fascinating country at your own pace. But before you get behind the wheel, be prepared for a few challenges. Here’s everything you need to know to drive safely.

A bus and tuk-tuks on a narrow road in Sri Lanka
Sri Lanka’s bustling traffic, from imposing buses to colorful tuk-tuks

📄 Administrative formalities

To drive a car in Sri Lanka, a simple French, European or international license is not enough. You must obtain a Sri Lankan temporary license valid for one month.

Where to apply?

Apply to the Department of Motor Traffic in Colombo.

The process is relatively quick if you arrive early in the day. Make sure you have all your documents, including your original driving license and a copy.

🚦 Traffic: what to expect

Hectic, anarchic traffic

Sri Lankan roads teem with vehicles of all kinds: buses, tuk-tuks, motorcycles, trucks and pedestrians. Bus drivers dominate the road with an aggressive driving style, sometimes overtaking in perilous situations. Expect constant honking, as this is the local way of signalling their presence. Beware of accidents

If you’re used to driving in countries where the rules of the road are respected, be prepared for culture shock. Some situations, such as three-vehicle overtaking on a two-lane road, can be impressive, even frightening.

Average speed and speed limits

Congested roads slow traffic down considerably. On average, allow 35 km/h in mountainous areas and 55 km/h on main roads. Even on open roads, expect slowdowns caused by tuk-tuks or buses.

💸 Car rental costs

Driving in Sri Lanka remains an economical option.

  • Rental rate: Between €8 and €9 per day, with unlimited mileage.
  • Petrol price: Approximately €0.7/liter (updated 2024).

If you’re looking for a safer alternative, chauffeur-driven car hire costs around €30-50 per day, but offers unrivalled comfort and peace of mind.

⚠️ Driving in Sri Lanka: Is it dangerous?

Yes, driving in Sri Lanka can be risky.

  • Narrow roads: Most roads have only one lane in each direction, and are often congested.
  • Few rules enforced: Overtaking on blind bends or mountain roads is common.
  • Frequent accidents: You’ll often see overturned tuk-tuks, crashed trucks or cars in the ditch.

To minimize the risks, start in less-frequented areas such as Ella or Anuradhapura.

🌍 Alternatives to driving

If driving seems too stressful, Sri Lanka offers alternatives:

  • Buses: Affordable and well-connected, but often crowded.
  • Trains: Charming and scenic, perfect for routes like Kandy-Ella.
  • Hire with driver: Ideal for carefree exploring, although a little more expensive.

🚘 My personal experience

During my travels in Sri Lanka, I preferred to avoid driving myself. The chaos of the roads, combined with the frequency of accidents, convinced me to use public transport. Traveling by bus or train allowed me to focus on the scenery and interact with the locals.

If you’re new to driving outside Europe, I’d strongly recommend hiring a chauffeur-driven car or limiting yourself to trips in small towns.

💡 Conclusion

Driving in Sri Lanka offers incomparable freedom, but it does require a good deal of preparation and caution. If you decide to give it a try, arm yourself with patience, respect the local rules and avoid the big cities on your first attempts. Otherwise, explore the many alternatives available to discover this magnificent country with complete peace of mind.